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Of course, I hadn’t bothered taking any pictures in the pissing rain, because I can do that anytime I like back in the UK hills, if photos of grey mist are of any value. On the morning we were leaving it dawned clear and we had beautiful views of snow capped peaks across the lake, and I was able to get a few photographs. There was nowhere to hang our wet things back at our campsite, so each morning we donned the same damp clothing and hoped again for a half decent view of something that day. We walked to the superb viewpoint of the Torres del Paine lookout, where we could see bugger all across a dull grey pool as miserable as a wet weekend in Grimsby. We camped in the rain for two days beside Lago Pehoe, with the dramatic rock spires of the Cuernos del Paine tantalisingly hidden behind mist across the lake. I didn’t realise it was physically possible for the sky to contain that much water. 48 hours of rain may not sound like very much, but it is when it literally never stops, even for a few minutes. When I crossed over the border into Chilean Patagonia to visit the Torres del Paine it was a different story.
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In those places the weather wasn’t too bad, but the prevailing winds are westerly, which means they strike Chilean Patagonia first, and by the time they’ve crossed the Andes to the Argentine side their storms have been weakened. I spent a week or so exploring the dramatic rock spires of the Fitzroy area in Argentine Patagonia, and a couple of days chilling out in Ushuaia, the world’s southernmost city on the island of Tierra del Fuego. Patagonia contains the world’s only ice caps outside the polar regions, and my one and only visit there came in 2003, before I had done any real climbing.
#PATAGONIA COME HELL OR HIGH WATER MOVIE FULL#
Quite a lot of wind circulates the globe at this latitude across three oceans, and with no continental landmasses to temper it, it slams into Patagonia with its full force, producing severe and prolonged storms and freezing temperatures. Paine Grande and the Cuernos del Paine sure look nice when the weather’s favourable
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In the context of this metaphor, therefore, you can think of Patagonia as a probing tongue, seeking the icy body of the Antarctic Peninsula. You will notice most sensible land masses have drifted well north of Antarctica, apart from South America, which appears to be trying to kiss it. Lying at the southern tip of South America between 35 and 50 degrees latitude and divided across Argentina and Chile, Patagonia’s geography can best be understood by spinning a globe in your hands and looking at the bottom of it. There’s not really a good time of year to visit Chilean Patagonia, as anyone who has been there will know.